Hey, hej, hallo!
After leaving Queenstown on a shaky plane ride, caused by an approaching storm from the west. If you by any means want to no more about this particular storm I suggest you read my friend Sir James excellent blog about spending a day in the midst of it by clicking, here! When, or if, you read James story my plane ride is like a nice kindergarten story. The plane was a little heavy so we had to remove some of the fuel and instead of a direct flight to Auckland we ended up taking a small detour to Christchurch for a pit-stop.
It was the landing and take off in Christchurch that involved must of the fun, sins that was at the edge of the big weather system it had quite allot of turbulence. Sitting next to an old lady (who did not enjoy this the least bit) I tried to encourage her by smiling and laughing while the plane shook and bumped like a rollercoaster. Though it didn't bother me much sins I've experienced almost the same thing before I have a feeling that my mum for example would have seriously considered to never fly again given she had the same experience :-)
Arriving safely in Auckland I immediately took first the bus, then the ferry and then the bus again before I arrived at my stop by Hekerua Rd on Waiheke Island. Straining under the weight of my bags, I walked slowly down the road towards the hostel. When I, with rising body temperature reached the office the owners three dogs immediately came to welcome me with friendly barks (though with a slight tone of suspicion). Due to low season I got a three bed share all by my self, which was quite nice sins I had the bag full of wet clothes that needed to be dried. The reason of all the wet clothes was the malfunction of the dryer (torktumlare) at the hostel in Queenstown, and not enough time to dry them outdoors.
Unfortunately the moisture in the air on Waiheke, along with some light showers (duggregn) made the drying an ongoing task during my four days on the Island. With not much but audiobook listening to do, I fell asleep early.
Waking up to sunshine and an roaring stomach, I decided to go for a breakfast cafe expedition. Not knowing the neighbourhood I took my chances and relied on my gut feeling, or my empty stomach if you will, to guide me right. After merely 15 min of walking on narrow roads through lush forest I reached a cafe that had a espresso sign, it looked a little fishy but my stomach told me it had to do! Two eggs, bacon, toast and a non school book Cappuccino later I felt quite satisfied with my find. Walking out the door I found to my disappointment that a really posh looking cafe and deli lay right next door. No worries I told my stomach we will go there tomorrow.
Spent the rest of the day trying to find a decent Internet place, which turned out to be impossible, so I settled with checking my e-mail at the library. At the very nice Waiheke fruits & Vegetables i bought some delicous mandarins and apples, and also some Organic Beetroot, some Kiwi goat cheese and spinach. Back at the hostel I made myself a nice beet salad, after what seamed to be an eternity waiting for the beets to boil. Full of beet salad and bored with the American TV shows I retreated back to my room for some more audiobook chapters.
Next day I walked straight back to the posh looking cafe and had a gorgeous pastrami sandwich and a school book Cappuccino (1/3 espresso, 1/3 hot milk and 1/3 foam). Then I took the bus to visit the legendary and arguably the only true cult winery in New Zealand, Stonyridge Vineyards.
The mute bus driver did his best to announce when I was about to get of the bus, I understood by his firm gaze and later waving arms that this was my stop.
Stonyridge is situated near Onetangi, placed on gently sloping hills facing north. It was planted in 1983 by founder and winemaker Stephen White, who had but one goal in mind to produce the finest Bordeaux-blend in New Zealand and if possible the world. Much to the frenchies surprise his 1996 Larose (the top wine of Stonyridge) got first place in a blind tasting in Bordeaux leaving wines like Margaux, Mouton-Rothschild and Latour behind the stern. Walking on to the estate made my feel like walking on to holy ground, just a little bit, it is always cool to visit a truly recognised winery. Upon entering the main building I was Approached by one of the waitresses that asked me if my intentions was to taste wines or have lunch, both I answered with a grin on my face.
At a small bar next to the dining area they had the tasting room, and they let you taste all there wine unfortunately not for free but still not very pricey. Fortunately I had e-mailed ahead an made contact with David Jackson the general manager, who was kind enough to come out and say hi and introduce me to the winemaker Summer Bell. That did not get me taste for free but ensured a very friendly approach from the staff, maybe my notebook gave a good impression as well.
After trying four of there wines including 07 Larose and there Rhone-style 07 Pilgrim (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre) all but the Cardonnay very impressive wines off immense elegance and complexity. Moving on to the dining room I still had a some wine left in my sample glasses, which I could enjoy with my lamb, as I looked out over the vineyards. As I was savoring my tender lamb the waitress asked me if I would like a small sample of the 96 Larose, does Dolly Parton sleep on here back? I thought and noddingly excepted the offer. The 96 was still alive and kicking, with allot of complexity and still good fruit but it also came scaryingly similar to a Rioja Grand Reserva (perhaps not as much vanilla and dill). Rejoicing in my after lunch buzz I walked out into the vineyards to have a look around and take some photos. Leaving the Estate I walked passed the winery where they where just bottling the 2008 Larose, so I got to taste that as well, which according to themselves was a great vintage.
Next day I was back at my cafe for another sandwich and a Latte. Missing the bus I decided to start walking instead of waiting, and ended up walking all the way to Cable Bay winery (6 km). The stylish looking winery with restaurant lay a top a hill overlooking the vineyards and Auckland. for the price of 5 NZD I got to sample all there wine, a bargain compared to one sample of Stonyridge Larose for 15NZD. They made a very nice Chardonnay and a good quality Bordeaux blend called Five Hills, and also made a girly-men (ett riktigt fruntimmers vin) rose from Merlot. Cable Bay also had a few decent quality wines made from Marlborough fruit to broaden there range, which i tried but that left as lasting of an impression as the latest episode of NZ top-model. There Five Hills Red 07, was another story, doing as good job of imitating Bordeaux as Jim Carrey imitates Clint Eastwood. In other words a very balanced and complex red wine with smooth tannins and black currant fruit with notes of ceder and pencil shavings.
Next stop on my Island wine tasting tour was the Mudbrick Winery, which had a premium tasting package of seven different wines for 10NZD. Really good wines with there two Syrah's making the biggest impression. After tasting a set down for lunch in there restaurant, which at a glance of the menu reveled to have a Chef by the name of Andreas Lindberg, in other words a Swedish Chef :-) Needles to say the food was excellent and the Merlot i had with my truffle poached chicken made a perfect match. Yet another day was soon at its end as I packed my bags that night to head for Auckland in the morning.
I'm happy to reveal that this will be the last blogpost written on Kiwi soil sins I soon have too head for the airport. See most of you soon!
/Martin